“La Bonne Cuisine est la base du veritable bonheur.”
“Good food is the foundation of genuine happiness.”
– Auguste Escoffier
“King of chefs and chef of kings”
Author of Le Guide Culinaire, 1903
In today’s world where the classic cookbook is long passe, and even static website recipes seem boring when compared to video demonstrations, it may seem quite behind the times to seek out and rejoice in old family recipes. It may seem even more unusual to attend a traditional cooking class at a culinary school simply for the enjoyment and enrichment of the experience. Here is a tribute to both.
The following webpages are my attempt to share a few of the more interesting recipes from childhood that have graced many a family gathering. To a great extent good food is about gathering over stories shared and relationships celebrated, healed, or renewed.
These pages also include a few reminiscences – and some classic culinary ideas – that I had the opportunity to experience during the glory days of the now lost New England Culinary Institute in Vermont.
If one ever finds oneself near a good cooking school which allows the novice to audit classes- this is a wonderful opportunity to watch, smell, feel, ask questions, and yes, EAT, all while meeting new people with divergent interests and backgrounds who share the passion for Good Food.
Images:
Black Walnut Cake; Vermont Maple Syrup Salad Dressing (featured in Healthy Church cookbook); Mother’s Tea Scone Recipe; My Cousin Carl II and his son, Carl III, sugaring in their restored sugarhouse on Mount Holly, Vermont; “Stirring Up” a dressing; “Levi” – once a Maine lobster; and Oatmeal Cookies with Maple Frosting, Pecans, and a Pot of Earl Grey.
KPS 2021
Cakes
“Queen Elizabeth’s Own”
Once said to be the only recipe the Queen personally supervised each Christmas, this rich mincemeat cake is steeped in cognac and stewed apples, raisons, and citrus peels. Sharing this holiday recipe traditionally requires a donation given to the poor.
Carmelized Pear
A Translucent cinnamon tart “ocean” crowns a butter and caramelized pear yellow cake surrounded by shores of cream cheese and spiced Jamaican rum icing.
Windermere Adventure
A favorite treat of children in the adventure stories of English writers Enid Blyton and Arthur Ransome. “When cook put a cherry cake in the provisions hamper – they knew it was a special occasion.” This egg-filled and almond-cherry classic is complimented by a really good ginger ale.
“Dutch Boterkoek”
A Traditional rich and festive cake from the Netherlands – with citrus glacé and melted butter – makes a decadent beginning to Easter morning or any celebration with champagne or fresh-squeezed orange juice.
“Tea to the English is really a picnic indoors”
– Alice Walker
A mascerated-fruit cake inspired in North Carolina – layered with marmalade and laced with Grand Marnier, frosted in marzipan and garnished with cherries and oranges glacé – makes a gracious afternoon treat with a cup of strong black English tea.
Salads
Vermont Maple Syrup Dijon
This mustard, tarragon, and avocado oil is a light and healthy dressing for any greens. A “Tip of the Toque” due here to Jaques Pepin for simplified inspiration.
Aunt Paula’s Maryland
Growing up in 1920’s Baltimore my Aunt Paula was introduced to her cook – Bertha’s – famous golden potato salad. Decades ahead of the “flavor rules” – it blended celery, garlic, fresh mayonnaise, eggs, and “skin-on” baby potatoes in a combination perfect for crab cakes, old fashioned burgers, or a bed for a grilled fillet of salmon.
New England meets New Orleans
Created “by the accident of necessity” before a party faced with a plethora of bar mixes, a block of cheese, and a ton of shrimp looking for a fresh interpretation. This blend of a spicy Bloody Mary to a blend of seafood and cheeses this makes an excellent hard dip – or an elegant sandwich spread fr tea.
Bakes
Paul’s Healthy or Decadent
These cookies may be served “heart-friendly” – plain or with dried fruits, raisons, and nuts – or “fully loaded” – with butterscotch, chocolate or candied morsels, and topped with a maple sugar frosting and deviled pecans.
Mother’s Traditional English
Another purloined recipe from my parent’s stay in England were basic tea scones made by the kitchen staff at one of their hosts. Incredibly simple to make (once mastered), they invite real Irish Butter or just about any preserve and a pot of Earl Grey.
Classic English Pub
This traditional accompaniment for roast beef is simultaneously simple in preparation, fragile in execution, and fool-proof in flavor. During the busy preparations for a holiday dinner these are the best “two of three” to have…
Soups
Summer Garden
“A Salad in Bowl” – this healthy low-fat and low-carb soup is zesty and as amazingly variable as a summer’s day.
Russian Heritage Borscht
It is said that “Every Slavic Family Has a Recipe for Borscht”. This is combines some of my very favorites – adjusted for the American palate. A rich red wine, beef, and root vegetable stew that lives happily on the stove for hours…
French Country Mushroom
This wonderful concoction is for lovers of cream of mushroom soup that is “civilized” to be served cold. It is perfect if one has an herb garden, and can combine whatever fall herbs need harvesting and put in the service of a Beaujolais nouveau.
Reflections from a Culinary Theatre
Musings – Anecdotes – and Lobster
“Laughing brains are more absorbent.” …
– Alton Brown
Celebrity chef, FOOD NetWork host, NECI graduate
This is a page of reminiscences – and some classic culinary ideas – that I had the opportunity to experience in the 1990’s at Vermont’s NECI (The New England Culinary Institute; active in Burlington, Montpelier and Essex Junction, Vermont, from 1980 – 2021). It also includes a few thoughts on Maine Lobster…
“I don’t think about whether people will remember me or not. I’ve been an okay person. I’ve learned a lot. I’ve taught people a thing or two. That’s what’s important. Sooner or later the public will forget you, the memory of you will fade. What’s important is the individuals you’ve influenced along the way.”
– Julia Child
“She taught America how to cook.”
Author of Mastering the Art of French Cooking, 1961